MBFWA: Michael Lo Sordo’s Dishevelled Collection
This article was first published by Onya Magazine on April 10 2014
Never did I think it was possible to make disheveled clothes look sleek, chic and elegant. That is, until Michael Lo Sordo’s SS14/15 show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.
One of my favourite designers, last season Lo Sordo wowed with vibrant and eclectic exotic prints. This time it was all about beautiful pastels, clean, soft lines and perfectly nonchalant, slightly ragged styling.
The collection stays true to Lo Sordo’s signature tailoring style, but with a more ethereal feel. It’s as if a beautifully dressed girl has been chased, running through wild thorn bushes before finding herself on the catwalk in front of us. It offered an intriguing juxtaposition – simple and sleek silhouettes and materials, but designed to be falling off the model’s shoulder, with loose pieces floating or trailing on the floor.
Gelati colours including lemon yellow, pastel pink and baby blue popped against the sea of white garments that formed the basis of the collection, appearing on satin slip dresses, silken trenches, metallic leather bralettes and flowing skirts. Lo Sordo’s signature prints were also present, although slightly muted, with a pink sea snake skin suit, top slashed to the navel.
Another striking aspect of the collection was the layering of jackets and coats. Appearing in thin, luxurious materials, trench coats were tied round the waist, or half hanging off shoulders over a slinky dress. It was an interesting style choice, showing off outerwear as an accessory.
The jewellery pieces perfectly complemented the collection, in an exclusive collaboration between the designer and Ryan Storer. A key piece was the ear cuff, shaped in a striking, organic line to reflect the tailored lines of the clothes. The runway played its part too – with two specially commissioned 3D geometric formations by artist Dion Horstman dominating the space. Casting dramatic shadows, they were a great contrast to the softness of the clothes.
Makeup was luxurious and sculptural, with Maybelline NY’s Nigel Stanislaus giving models creamy skin, bronzer, illuminator, curled lashes but no mascara, and finished off with a honey beige lip – the perfect face to let Lo Sordo’s obvious talent shine through.